Choosing a Handgun

Paul Gettings

Introduction

Handguns are small, portable firearms designed to be a last form of armed defense. Originally designed to be an always-ready, always-available defensive firearm, they have grown to include dedicated target shooting models for precision markmanship. Like all firearms, they are weapons, not ''toys'' in the conventional sense of the word. They can all wound, maim, and kill. They are not to be dismissed as harmless. Treated with proper respect (safety), they are fun and challenging to shoot.

Contrary to the popular presentation in movies, hitting a target, even a large one at close range, with a handgun is not always easy. Stationary targets at a firing range are the easiest to hit, and many new shooters completely miss paper (even 2'x4' targets) at 25' and 50'. Hitting a hostile, moving target in defense of yourself or others is vastly more difficult, and calls for the best weapons and skills. Target shooting with handguns, like long-range rifle shooting, is a challenging sport of skill and engineering.

Choosing an appropriate handgun is not a hard process, but neither is it trivial. The correct choice depends on multiple factors, which must be weighed to determine an optimal choice. There is rarely, if ever, a perfect choice available. Every choice will be a compromise between features, price, performance, etc. The trick is to make the compromise acceptable, and the choice as good as possible.

Considerations

The factors involved in choosing a handgun, in the order of importance, are:

Each of these factors should be considered, and some will be limited by higher choices: price limits what manufacturers may be chosen, and use limits caliber.

Fit

The single most important factor in choosing a handgun is the fit and feel of the weapon in your hand. A handgun which fits will be easy to use, accurate, and fun. A handgun that doesn't fit will be hard to accurately shoot, annoy you with just-out-of-reach controls, and feel wrong. The goal of any handgun purchase is to acquire a weapon which will become an extension of your hand and arm. The proper fit is what makes this possible.

Fit cannot be determined by manufacturer, model, brochure, or hearsay. You must hold the weapon, preferably with full magazine (for weight and balance), to determine how it fits your particular hand geometry. A competent shooter can hit a target with any functioning handgun, but may well not shoot more than one round. With a weapon that fits, shooting is a pleasure, recoil is not painful, and hitting a stationary target with a snap shot is easily achievable.

For some people, fit can be checked by simply picking up the handgun, and there is an instant recognition of fit (my H&K USP Compact was this way). In other cases, more care is necessary (e.g. my Beretta Cougar 8040D). Hold the weapon in the shop or at the range, and run through the following checks for fit:

If the handgun will not ever, in any possible circumstance, be considered a defensive weapon (only target shooting), the layout of controls, and the ease of use are of less concern. In such a case, the sight picture (how do the sights look? where do you naturally hold the weapon), weight, trigger, and feel in the hand are of utmost importance.

Note that if you are willing to modify a weapon, trigger feel, sights, and recoil springs can all be adjusted after purchase. New owners are advised to start with a weapon that is ready out-of-the-box, and to build some experience with various weapons before modifying their own.

Use

After feel of the handgun, the use of the weapon is the most important factor to consider. This is because use will strongly influence all other factors. For the purposes of this discussion, there are only two uses that will be considered: (1) defensive handguns, and (2) target handguns. The third major use, collecting, is irrelevant, since a collectible gun depends on the make, model, age, etc. and the value is inherent in the artifact, not in the usefulness of the weapon.

Defensive handguns are those which are bought for the primary, or secondary, purpose of defense of life. Defensive handguns can (and should) be used for target practice and plinking. Target handguns are bought solely for target practice, and would never be used for defense.

The main differences between a defensive and target handgun are the acceptable levels of reliability and ease of use. Defensive handguns must always work with the chosen defense ammunition. Defensive handguns should be easy, and intuitive, to use. Target handguns can be unreliable and difficult to use, as failure does not equal death.

Once the use of the handgun is determined, the choices of make, model, caliber, and price will be limited. Defensive use requires a well-made, easy-to-use weapon in a useful caliber. This generally raises the minimum price, as quality is rarely had cheaply. Target use generally expands the range of models and price, but often greatly restricts the desirable calibers.

Price

Price is an important factor in the choice of a handgun, but rarely should it be the primary choice. After fit and use, price is typically the greatest limiting factor in the choice of weapon. It is advised to shop for a firearm with the idea of a maximum price. Do not look for the cheapest handgun that fits and works for the desired use; rather, look at all handguns that will work for a use, and are less than some maximum price. Find the one that fits and purchase that one.

Expect to spend significant money for quality handguns. Despite the small size of handguns, they are significantly more expensive than most rifles and shotguns. Quality new handguns typically cost between $300 and $2000. High-recognition names (e.g. Heckler & Koch, Glock, Sig Sauer) command a premium, and hence their offerings will be more expensive. In general, their offerings are better designed, better built, and better maintained than cheaper manufacturers. Beretta and Walther are also well-known premium brands with prices to match.

Less expensive handgun manufacturers that still make quality equipment include Smith & Wesson, Ruger, Bersa (some mixed reviews), CZ (particularly the CZ-75), and Magnum Research (the Baby Eagle/Jericho/Uzi Eagle model).

Note that in the case of Colt 1911 type pistols, there are many manufacturers who build slightly tweaked versions of the basic Colt design. These are virtually all custom guns, with prices to match. Both Springfield Armory and Kimber have excellent reputations in these model pistols, and have slightly lower prices. Expect to pay between $500 and $2000 for various models with different options and tweaks. It is recommended that anyone considering purchasing a 1911 type pistol try one first, to determine if the style fits, and then shop for the precise 1911 model desired. New shooters are somewhat discouraged from 1911 type pistols due to the single-action nature for defensive use, and the plethora of options.

Target guns are often expensive, as they are built to tight tolerances for the best accuracy. ''Plinking'' guns, or target guns for fun rather than markmanship, can be had from the cheaper manufacturers, as failure or breakage is not catastrophic as with a defensive handgun.

As stated before, the preferred way to price a handgun purchase is to determine a maximum price, and then try every weapon possible below or near that price. The choice is then made based on other factors, such as fit, caliber, and aesthetics.

Ammunition Price

Most new shooters are not reloaders, and hence the price of ammunition is to be considered in your purchase. Cheaper ammunition is generally more available, and will allow you to practice more with your weapons. If purchasing your first handgun, and you do not reload ammunition, it is best to stick with the most common calibers (9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, etc.) and leave the more exotic options (.45 Colt, .454 Casull, .32 ACP) for later purchases.

Caliber

The correct caliber for a handgun is set by the desired use and the shooter's preference. Any competent shooter should be able to hit a stationary target at a range with any caliber, once. Enjoyable shooting will generally restrict the choice of caliber.

Defensive Calibers

Defensive handguns should use the largest caliber you can comfortably and accuractely shoot. Ideally, you would be using .44 Magnum or larger for defense. Since virtually no one can accurately shoot such a powerful round accurately and comfortably, most defensive handguns are between .45 and .32 caliber.

There is a perpetual ''religious'' war between those who claim that only the .45 ACP is acceptable for defense, and those who claim that 9mm Luger is the round of choice. Both camps, of course, are wrong due to incompleteness. The largest, most powerful (by momentum, not muzzle energy), handgun round you can comfortably and accurately fire is the correct choice.

Defensive handgun use is about killing an attacker. Nothing else. Shoot-to-wound is an concept only useful to law enforcement, and it has historically failed there as well. Hence, since larger bullets make bigger permanent holes, larger calibers are better. But, only shots that hit count, and hence a miss is completely useless regardless of caliber. Larger handgun rounds are harder to accurately shoot, especially under stress. Therefore, choose the largest round you, not someone you know, can shoot accurately and comfortably.

Comfortably, for this discussion, means you can shoot it all day, every day. You do not mind the recoil, noise, or flash. You do not flinch while firing, and you can place a second and third shot near the first in rapid succession.

For most people, particularly new shooters, the largest caliber they can comfortably shoot is 9mm Luger. Some people can comfortably shoot .45 ACP; I am happiest with my .45 ACP, and find 9mm to be something of a cap gun. However, everyone I know that carries handguns for defense, or purchased a handgun for defense, uses 9mm Luger. Most police officers still carry 9mm handguns. With defense ammunition, 9mm is perfectly acceptable for defensive use. It is also very cheap to shoot, as ammunition is readily available everywhere.

Another common defensive caliber is .40 S&W (Smith & Wesson). This is intermediate in recoil, power, and flash between a 9mm and .45 ACP. For those who can comfortably shoot the round in their gun, this is a better choice for defense. The ammunition is much more expensive than 9mm or even .45 ACP, which should be considered as well. Practice is vitally important for everyone with firearms.

Target Calibers

Target handguns can be in a variety of calibers, and the choice may be set by the rules of competitions. Many competitions only allow .22 Long Rifle (.22LR), or only .45 ACP, handguns to be used. In these cases, the choice of caliber is simple, and already made.

For plinking, cheaper and smaller calibers are generally better, as they allow for more fun with smaller budgets. Therefore, .22LR is very popular. Defensive calibers, such as 9mm, .357 Mag, .38 Special, or .45 ACP are also used for target shooting, but are more expensive than .22LR. The exotic small calibers, such as .32 ACP, are more expensive than the common large calibers, such as 9mm.

For target handguns, choose whatever caliber seems appropriate or enticing for the particular gun.

Aesthetics

Although listed almost last, aesthetics (the look of the weapon) are not to be dismissed. Aesthetics is low on the list because it will be limited by what models are available in the price range and caliber of choice. Different manufacturers make different styles of weapons, all of which work. Try them all, looking for fit and styling.

Styles range from the classics of the Colt Peacemaker revolver and 1911 pistol to the ultra-modern titanium and polymer frames of the S&W airweight series and H&K USP series. Pick a style you like, in a weapon that fits your hand, in the caliber and price range you choose. If you plan to use this weapon as a concealed carry weapon, choose a style you can carry and draw with ease.

Color choices, for those who care, are generally very limited to blued steel (typically black in appearance), nickel-plated (rare), or stainless steel. Stainless steel, besides being shiny, does not corrode (rust) easily, but generally costs a few dollars more. Personal preference in the color will determine whether the money is well spent for a more corrosion-resistant weapon.

Note that the latest ''blueing'' techniques (such as the H&K Hostile Environments Finish) provide corrosion resistance equal to stainless (until worn off) in a black, rather than silver, package.

Fit is more important than styling, but style turns a functional weapon into a piece of art.

Manufacturer

The manufacturer of your handgun is important, but less so than fit, caliber, or aesthetics. Both price and aesthetics will typically be set by the manufacturer, as each company builds distinctive guns that can generally be recognized by sight.

Any reputable manufacturer makes firearms that will last, with care, for your lifetime and beyond. Better manufacturers make more accurate, more reliable (less prone to jamming, not breaking), and often spiffier-looking weapons.

Choose the manufacturer by fit, aesthetics, and price (in that order).

Conclusion

After weighing all the factors in which model handgun to purchase, find the particular handgun you want, and buy it. The ATF forms, for those who are worried, are not archived by the ATF looking for particular weapons. The forms, in fact, do not go to the government; they are retained by the dealer for their records in case of audit. Forms for NFA Class III and multiple handgun purchases do get sent to the ATF; don't buy machine guns or more than 1 handgun in 5 business days if you care.

If you have not already done so, take a class on firearm safety and handling. Alternately, find a friend who (safely) uses firearms and get them to show you, in excrutiating detail, how to use, handle, and make safe a weapon.

Now, read the manual. If you didn't get a manual, call or email the manufacturer and have them send you one. They will all do this, for free. Read the manual again a day later. Then take the weapon apart and clean it. Then reassemble it. Practice clearing and working the controls, with no ammunition within 20' of the weapon. Then take it to the range and fire it. Use paper targets, at close range, so you can see where you hit and adjust.

Check the sights, and the accuracy of groups. Use a rest if possible, so you are testing the gun, and not your marksmanship.

Clean the weapon, and decide if you wish to keep it ready to shoot for defense, or unloaded. This is a personal decision for the household. If there are children present, be very careful about loaded weapons; children can break most locks and find anything you have hidden.

You should practice with your weapon as much as possible. The more you practice, the better you will become. All shooting demands the best skill you can put forth. For those who seek an escape from stress, target shooting can provide a very relaxing experience; shooting should be a Zen experience, where nothing matters but you, the target, and the extension of will that is your weapon.

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Choosing a Handgun

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